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John92LXOffline
2 Post subject: Now instead of 2Ks, it's 3-4K RPMs!  PostPosted: Dec 17, 2011 - 03:24 AM
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Now, instead of being stuck at 1,900 to 2,000 RPMs, my car now likes to idle at 3500 - 4000 RPMs. It just started this today, mearly HOURS after I got a bumper put on it. Just replaced the IAC valve and all other sensors in the head except the TPS.

Any ideas? Can the TPS cause this?

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PerformanceWithEconomyOffline
Post subject: RE: Now instead of 2Ks, it  PostPosted: Dec 17, 2011 - 04:51 AM
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Check the vacuum lines directly in front of the brake booster going to a little canister about the size of a toilet paper tube. Can't remember what this is, but if the lines crumble or crack, you get the exact same thing that you're describing. They are fed off of some very thin hard plastic lines coming from the vacuum tree mounted on the firewall. These lines also get brittle and break. One of my cars did the same thing and this was the culprit. Problem was that the lines would sometimes leak and sometimes collapse, blocking the leak. There are some factory right angle rubber boots in that area that crack too. If you've got a vacuum gauge, try monitoring it to see what is going on where.

Pulling and re-seating the TPS along with other connectors in the wiring harness can't hurt either. This helps to break up corrosion and force fresh metal to metal contacts. Sean
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John92LXOffline
Post subject: RE: Now instead of 2Ks, it  PostPosted: Dec 17, 2011 - 11:38 PM
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Update: This morning, everything was fine. Got to my friends house (or near it) and here we go with 3-4000 RPMs again. All the way back, in 5th gear, it would cruise at almost exactly 55 MPH with my foot off the accelerator and it churning a normal RPM for 55 MPH. The second I'd put in the clutch, taking the pressure of the car going down the road off of it, it was 3500-4K again.

During one of it's crazy high idle "spells" (which overheats the car quickly if it's not moving), I did unplug the TPS and it idled down to about 2500 and then eventually right back up to where it was at 4K. I plugged it back in, no difference.

The Mercedes 1984 steering system couldn't take the pressure of me going through the ditch yesterday to avoid a Christmas caroler who decided to park with a long trailer on his truck with no running lamps in front of my driveway, and a (possible misuse of the word here) steering arm broke. I found which part it is that broke at autozone for $33. It also dented the oil pan. I was only going 3-5 mph, and I've hit the ditch at or over 30 MPH in a Tempo more than once and broke nothing. Just saying, LOL I got so angry at my in-law that I swerved into her driveway at about 35 MPH and the GLS hit the ditch HARD. Nothing broke, except the garbage can I knocked clear accross her yard.

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Insane89Tempo96Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 18, 2011 - 04:11 AM
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jesus, thats one dumb christmas caroler with a trailer!
thank god u didnt plow into his truck!
 
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John92LXOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 18, 2011 - 04:27 PM
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Insane89Tempo96 wrote:
jesus, thats one dumb christmas caroler with a trailer!
thank god u didnt plow into his truck!


Yep, and I know I'll catch flack for this, but I don't have insurance on the Benz, either. Would've been a big mess in more ways than one.

Anyway, it did damage my Mercedes. It needs an oil pan, some sort of steering arm and possibly a rebuild on the steering box. You can see all it hit was dirt, not the curb, not the culbert (sp?), nothing but dirt and it tore it up as if I'd plowed into it at 80 MPH and it was solid cement! LOL!

On the other hand, the GLS's handling saved my life last night. I was on a two-lane road doing about 60-65. I cought up to a mid-90s Chevy doing 45. I pull out to pass and there is ANOTHER Chevy, with one working tail light that I didnt see before, wondering over into the left lane, the lane I'm now doing 70 MPH in. I swerved HARD to the right and I dont know how in the name of GOD I missed them both and didn't lose it, but I made it. I heard tire squeel from the GLS's crappy made-in-china front tires as I swerved around the second (1st?) truck.

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Last edited by John92LX on Dec 19, 2011 - 06:29 AM; edited 3 times in total
 
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John92LXOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 19, 2011 - 06:20 AM
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Update:

I thought I had this problem licked (solved). I cranked up the GLS and was about to leave when RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA up to 4K again, I said enough with this sh!t and pulled it around to the shop. I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the TPS (and cleaned some grime out of where it goes into). I crank the car up, runs normal. "Great!" I think to myself, problem solved.

I drive to my friend's house (took the long way, about 40-50 miles) and by the time I got home (short way, 30 miles), it was doing it again. Really irks me.

And what REALLY is the kicker is the Mercedes is down for the count, too.

There is a '95 Taurus 3.0L near me for $1200. I wish I could get them to trade me the Taurus for the Benz, but they refused my offer. Sad

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John92LXOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 20, 2011 - 07:03 PM
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UPDATE: I think its fixed. I think....



Anyway, I ended up replacing all those vacuum lines PWE mentioned including the Ts, the TPS, etc, and it made no difference.

Today, I cleaned my old IAC valve and put it back inplace of the new one. Problem solved! For now anyway! Wonder if I should return the "new" TPS , too?
That $25 could go towards the $33 part the Benz needs to run/drive again.

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Last edited by John92LX on Dec 21, 2011 - 12:26 AM; edited 1 time in total
 
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John92LXOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 20, 2011 - 10:29 PM
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Just drove it about 60 miles, idled perfect evrytime I came to a stop, etc. NO MORE 4,000 RPM DOWNSHIFTS! I tell you, it was quite challenging to drive the GLS with that problem AND the missing bushing for the non-power rack&pinion. What a handful, but it was still fun to drive. I mean, I love this car, lol.

Took back the TPS and repurchased the ignition switch I discussed earlier as advised. thanks:)

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John92LXOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 21, 2011 - 12:39 AM
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Can't believe this. I went to visit my uncle the other day and my car was acting up (revving high), turns out he wasnt home so I left. Some guy told him I was spinning out and cutting doughnuts and what not though no evidence exists that I was doing that. I think the idiot just heard the loud engine and assumed I was acting a fool. Anyway, my uncle believes him over me and says he never wants to see me on his property again. So, thanks, idiot bystander for a misunderstanding that might end up being the last words I have with my uncle. Rolling Eyes Crying or Very sad


Now none of them believe me that it was the car revving up, not me spinning out. I even offfered this website and the time-and-date stamped posts as PROOF of my car having the problem but they won't hear of it.

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PerformanceWithEconomyOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 21, 2011 - 01:25 AM
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So, the car is still revving WAY up at random? Sean
<

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John92LXOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 21, 2011 - 07:23 AM
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No, Sean, that part is figured out as of today: The old IAC valve turned out to just need cleaning, the new one evidently started the crazy revving, it only sticks to around 2K when I come to a stop, and it falls to a decent 1100 or 1,000 RPMs in short order, which I'm perfectly happy with on an unrebuilt 196K mile HSC that's had the life wrung out of it recently. The post I made at 1:03 PM & 4:29 PM Mon afternoon before all he!! broke loose explains it better t han I can now.

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amc49Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 22, 2011 - 04:17 PM
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Got to this party a bit late. Here's one for all you shishkabobs out there with high idle rpm problems of some sort. It will help you sort out troubles.

Regardless of other engine conditions (sensor outputs messed up, TB shaft wear, unmetered leaks, etc.) NO ENGINE on the planet can idle high without a source of AIR. Meaning you have to find out where the extra air is getting in. Sometimes that thinking must be tilted a bit to include sensor artificially telling PCM to open up the IAC, but still same idea. On these if no vacuum leak then some dope has been messing with the throttle blade screw, which should NEVER be touched on these cars. It is set to allow IAC to work through a normal range that the PCM can work with.

Kill the unneeded air and stop the problem. This problem drives CV carbed bikers nuts.
 
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John92LXOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 22, 2011 - 05:39 PM
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So by your statement I can devise that the new IAC valve I bought was sticking open on it's own? Because with the old one back in, it's fine and hasn't had another high-idle spell whatsoever since.

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ctubutisOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 22, 2011 - 06:47 PM
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You have a computer-controlled engine, ask the computer what it thinks is happening.

Here's how:

http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

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John92LXOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 22, 2011 - 07:01 PM
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The only code I got was open power steering sensor circut (it's unplugged & taped off, since the car's steering system has been converted to manual).

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