|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
Welcome to the Tempo Topaz Car Club of North America
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
My wife and I just returned from a weekend trip during which the upper radiator (return) hose was discovered with a rapidly-enlarging pinhole leak. I took a chance continuing on to our destination, and a local parts store let me look through their selection of hoses. Ford lists that V6 hose as obsolete, and no one else carries one. A Dayco #72044 (for early-'90s Dodge Caravan) sure looked close with a small modification, so I took a chance on it.
After cutting about 3" off the small-I.D. end, it was a perfect fit - almost. It was a snug fit around the air cleaner box, but just a bit loose on the radiator end. I replaced the spring-clip clamps with the screw type and tightened them down, and drove 280 miles home without leaking a drop.
Thanks, Tammy, at the Advance Auto Parts store on Eau Gallie Drive in Indian Harbor FL who helped me out on a Sunday morning, no less. I hope your boss sees this!
|
|
| (6345 Reads) |
  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
I work at a Toyota/Ford dealership at the parts counter. I have to fix my drivers seatbelt once a year. It seems to me that they're 3 common parts that go wrong. The plastic gear in the seatbelt motor, the black track belt and the white C-shape plastic runner attached to the seatbelt motor with 2 screws. Most parts for my COUPE tempo auto seatbelts are discontinued. The only thing I can still is the black track belt for about $48. So what I have done is go junk yard haunting. 4 door and 2 door model use different automatic seatbelt parts. Which stinks because 4 doors seem to last longer. Go to the junk yard and find the lowest mileage compatible tempo/topaz. 2 door or 4 door. Why the lowest? In theory, the Driver side is used the most and the passenger about less than half of that. Start disassembling the PASSENGER side seatbelt Mech under the rear quarter glass. Once you remove the interior plastic trim, you should be able to see the seatbelt motor. Remove the motor, then the 3 Philips screws holding the metal plate on. You now have the 3 inch white gear exposed. That gear will slide right of the shaft and out of the motor. Hopefully you have a plastic bag to put that gear in or else it will make a mess. Now disassemble the seatbelt track. Once fully disassembled, pull the black track belt all the way out. Make sure it's in good shape by looking at the groove section. It should not be cracked or broken. Before you get started on reassembling your car. Go to your local parts store and get a gel type lubricate like 'EASYGLIDE'. You will need to lube your track and motor gears. When you get home, disassemble you Drivers side seatbelt mech. Just like you did on the passenger side in the junk yard. This time don't break anything!!! This is your car. Both parts you got from the Junk yard car will work on your drivers’ side. The white motor gear will only go in one way. And just flip the black track belt over before you put it in your driver side. And also don't forget to slide the little metal seatbelt strap through the black track belt, before you slide the black track belt into your track. The metal bracket curves to the back of the car.
|
|
| (960 Reads) |
|
|
|
|
SEAFOAM
Posted by: 93redTempo on Friday, March 23, 2007 - 03:34 AM |
|
|
Theres a product at autozone called SEAFOAM..It is a top end cleaner and works great for cleaning carbon out of topends..You take off brake booster hose with engine running and suck 1/3 of the can in the engine..shut off(quickly)...let sit 15 mins. then restart and drive about 2 miles and you will sea a flume of smoke behind the vehicle(dont worry this is the carbon burning off)...Then go back turn engine off(at this point though you will FEEL the idle smooth out GUARANTEED) and put 1/3 in the crankcase and the other 1/3 in the gas tank...I would recommend only putting it in the crankcase if an oil change is due like real soon (it does thin the oil a little but WORKS)...cleans the rings and pistons of minute sludge...
|
|
| (1385 Reads) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
http://cgi.ebay.com/FRESH-CHERRIES-1-87-1984-FORD-TEMPO-BLACK-DIECAST_W0QQitemZ120085338851QQihZ002QQcategoryZ50285QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
FRESH CHERRIES
1:87 HO SCALE DIECAST REPLICA
BLACK 1984 FORD TEMPO
|
|
| (1899 Reads) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I was able to buy all new Accel Ignition parts for my 2.3 Liter Tempo. I ordered a new Coil, 8.8 mm wires, and distributer rotor from Summit racing's website. They all work great together and look even better. I was able to get everything for about $150. Check it out on my cardomain site... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2063293/3
|
|
| (1907 Reads) |
|
|
|
|
Air intake
Posted by: tech_dude on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 03:46 AM |
|
|
Increase power to the 89-93 topaz-tempo!
|
|
|
|
|
|
trottlebody mod
Posted by: powerslide on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 07:33 AM |
|
|
Trottlebodys off ford duratec v6 can be modded to fit 2.3 HSC. First remove TP sensor. Then remove butterfly and rod. After rod is out pay close attention to orginal position of TP sensor activator. This is the hard part, cut the rod (the new trottlebody) and weld back together so the activator is in the orginal position as the orginal trottle body (very important if not correct sensor may not work ). The duratec Tbody works in reverse be sure and reverve the butterfly. Now cut the linkage off the old one and new one be careful they are just tabbed in. Now spot weld the old linkage on the new trottlebody. Almost done, make a coverplate for the back of Tbody so you can block the passage for the duratec IAC inlet. Now get a small copper elbow (hardware store) and cut a whole in the IAC inlet so you can connect the rubber tube for the IAC inlet on the 2.3. Last step, widen the mount holes to mount the Tbody. Silicon the backing plate to the new trottlebody to make a seal. Use the old gasket off the old Tbody. Make sure the linkage works properly and no chance of hanging up. You may have to make a trottle stop and make sure the TP sensor is okay. I have had this Mod for 2 years now.
|
|
| (937 Reads) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I was outside recently cleaning my car and i have always hated the fact that im done and the car shines all over except the dull aged mirrors that make it look much older. This recently because a bigger issue after some lovely people in my neighborhood decided to paintball my car, which left stains ont he black plastic that i could not get off. So im cleaning and i rememdered we have liquid polishing compound for gelcoats like fiberglass boats. i took some of that and an orbital buffer and after two or three applications of it and a few minutes has taken the years away and made them shine like they just came from the factory. also this works amazingly for anyone wiht yellowed headlamps. a few applications and an orbital buffer has them looking brand new as well, a much better look with the new silverstars i bought.
|
|
| (1296 Reads) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you're looking for an inexpensive performance exhaust system for your 2.3L buy a flowmaster 40 series w/2 and a half inch inlet($35)(should fit perfect over your stock exhaust pipe, if you need new pipe farm&fleet has cat-back systems for 2.3L for $30, most important, take out the cat, and hollow it.
|
|
| (1602 Reads) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
